Sestiere Itinerary #1 Cannaregio

The hustle and bustle of confused tourists and busy workers make Cannaregio a chaotic and crowded sestiere, especially from the perspective of someone who has just docked in Venice.

Roaming around the neighbourhood’s main attractions often means navigating the throngs on Strada Nova, trying to catch your breath and avoid stepping on anyone’s toes. To avoid this unpleasant wandering, here are the first of My Art Guide’s curated sestiere itineraries for the Venice Biennale and the Bea Vita — the Venetian Good Life.

These routes, designed by our editorial staff, ensure you experience the best of contemporary art in Venice without missing a selection of bars and restaurants where you can refuel with delicious wine and Venetian delights.

The Cannaregio itinerary begins at the namesake Fondamenta, at the church of Santa Maria delle Penitenti, which hosts “Hora lupi”, Edith Karlson’s exhibition for the Estonian Pavilion [1]. Karlson explores primitive human urges in their banality and solemnity, questioning the possibility of redemption in a world that is never worthy of it. The church’s interior enhances the emotional atmosphere of the exhibition. The central series comprises hundreds of clay self-portraits inspired by fourteenth-century terracotta sculptures.

If it is a day between Thursday and Sunday, and perhaps it is already midday, you can take a break a few steps away from the first stop at a newly opened venue called Bea Vita [2]. After strolling along the Fondamenta di Baia del Re, you can sip some excellent natural wine and soak up the atmosphere of the place, which is constantly enlivened by art exhibitions and musical entertainment curated from a selection of vinyl records. In this den of locals, you can also enjoy typical Venetian dishes and cicchetti in a relaxed and convivial setting.

If you fancy a more formal meal, a few steps away from Bea Vita on the Fondamenta della Sensa, you will find Anice Stellato [3]. The spirit of the “bacaro”, offering small bites and house wine, blends seamlessly with that of the restaurant. Both are characterised by cuisine deeply rooted in Venetian tradition but enriched by other regional and international influences, with a constant focus on quality.

Once your break is over, you can return to art and visit three exhibitions within a few minutes’ walk of each other, starting with “Lee Bae: La Maison de la Lune Brûlée”[4] at the Fondation Wilmotte. In an age defined by complexity and a move away from nature, this Collateral Event offers a compelling narrative of reconnecting with the rhythms of nature, celebrating lunar cosmologies and folkloric traditions.

Next, visit the Scuola Grande della Misericordia and the Abbey Church. In the latter, you will find “Another One Bites the Dust” [5], Yu Hong‘s exhibition organised by the Lisson Gallery. Set against a gold background in the form of large roundels or arched panels, the figures in this exhibition tackle and reinterpret the epic themes of sacred art, all while maintaining the traditional role of painting in portraying the sorrows of the human condition.

Cross the small wooden bridge and skirt the side of the Scuola Grande, which hosts Zeng Fanzhi‘s exhibition “Near and Far/Now and Then” [6]. This exhibition highlights Zeng’s practice of redefining the abstract through exercises in figurative representation.

It might be time for another break. On the same Fondamenta, you will find Vino Vero [7] and its Vetrina: a delightful combination of natural wines, excellent cicchetti, and art, with an ever-changing window exhibition that can be admired 24/7. Currently on display in Vetrina #11 [8], “She is Land”,  an exhibition by Stefania Galegati, runs from May 30 until September 22, 2024.

A few more bridges and just a few more steps will bring you to Palazzo Diedo [9]. After over two years of restoration, the palace reopens its doors, returning the monumental spaces adorned with 18th and 19th-century frescoes and stucco work to their original splendour after years of neglect. The palace is currently hosting the exhibition “Janus”, featuring 11 original site-specific interventions by internationally renowned artists.

In this area, on Calle Larga dei Proverbi, you might want to stop by Giorgione da Masa [10] a Japanese-Venetian Fusion Cuisine restaurant. Masa conducts research inspired by the dedication, techniques, and respect for materials typical of the Rising Sun, combined with a passion for conviviality and natural drinking. This dedication is evident in the creation of dishes and tastings rooted in Japanese tradition and umami, which pleasantly surprise the Italian palate.

Now, make your way towards Fondamente Nove. Take a breath of fresh air, enjoy the view of the northern lagoon, and be careful not to step on tourists queuing to board the vaporetti to Murano. In less than 15 minutes on foot, you will reach the last four stops of our tour.

Head towards Calle Larga dei Boteri, where you will find an old carpentry workshop restored as an exhibition space housing the Croatian Pavilion [11]. The pavilion features “By the Means at Hand“, a project by Vlatka Horvat. It serves as a platform for showcasing works by artists living as expatriates worldwide, emphasising informal networks for their contributions. You might even meet the artist, who will be in residence at the pavilion throughout the Biennale.

Return to the Fondamenta and head straight inland to Spazio Berlendis, where you can visit the Collateral Event “Ydessa Hendeles: Grand Hotel” [12]. Based on the artist’s family history of persecution and migration, this exhibition offers a visceral experience that addresses perceptions of cultural identity and otherness.

Next, walk down Calle del Squero until you reach Wentrup [13], a new gallery housed in historic premises formerly the studio of Italian fashion designer Giuliana Camerino. The gallery is currently hosting the exhibition “Capriccio” in conjunction with the Biennale.

For the final stop, head to Palazzo Soranzo Van Axel, the venue of another Collateral Event, “Shahzia Sikander: Collective Behaviour” [14]. This exhibition showcases an exemplary selection of works from Sikander’s entire career, illustrating her distinctive iconography and her continuous reinvention through the adoption of new media.

If you are still not tired or just want to add some stops to our itinerary, don’t forget to download My Art Guide Venice’s App: the comprehensive collection of all the national pavilions, collateral events and the best concurrent exhibitions at the 60th International Art Exhibition – La Biennale di Venezia.